‘The art of the table’

Stories, anecdotes and curiosities to learn/understand/deepen the evolution of the table, cooking and protocol. From the origin of the first cutlery to Hemingway's favorite cocktails.

A BLOG BY

Our way of working always begins with the study of history. We delve into the past to learn from ancient customs and reinterpret them to fit contemporary lifestyles. Elegance and comfort characterize our way of understanding the art of the table.

El kipferl austríaco, Maria Antonieta y el croissant francés

The Austrian kipferl, Marie Antoinette and the French croissant

Some legends about its origin

It is said that the Austrian kipferl could be the grandfather of the croissant because of its similar crescent shape. A debate supported by different stories and legends that, believe it or not, add a curious and lively touch to the history of these pastries. The supposed origin of the Austrian kipferl dates back to the 17th century. The story goes that the Ottoman Empire, with the intention of invading Vienna, began to dig a passageway that would allow them to enter the city under the city walls. They dug at night while the Viennese slept, unaware that the bakers, who worked at night, heard the noises. They alerted the authorities, preventing the invasion, and to celebrate they created the kipferl, a bread whose crescent moon shape mimics the crescent moon of the enemy’s Ottoman flag. The world-famous French croissant is thought to be inspired by the Austrian kipferl that Marie Antoinette, Austrian archduchess and queen consort of Louis XVI, had brought to France for breakfast in the 18th century. A century later, the Austrian entrepreneur August Zang opened Boulangerie Viennoise in Paris. He soon made kipferl and pain viennois famous among the gentry. Zang actually modified the original recipe by making a much flakier dough, thus initiating the first version of today’s French croissant. We share a curiosity for the past, customs and traditions. The way to delve into history and discover the origins of things. We don’t know whether or not this is the true origin of the croissant, but it would be a very nice story if it were.

El bollo Suizo

The ‘bollo Suizo’

A lifelong sweet from Madrid

The ‘bollo Suizo’ is a classic pastry from Madrid that dates back to the 19th century. Despite its name, it is not of Swiss origin, but is a Spanish creation, specifically from Madrid.It owes its name to the Confitería Suiza, a very popular establishment in the Spanish capital at the time. Opened in 1845, this confectionery was located at number 6 Puerta del Sol and became famous for the production of this pastry. Over time, the Suizo became one of the most popular products in Madrid's pastry shops, becoming part of the traditional breakfast or afternoon snack of many families. Behind the Confitería Suiza was a family of Swiss origin, the Fundérichs, who decided to settle in Madrid and open their own confectionery business. The surname Fundérich has remained associated with the prestige of the establishment, which not only offered confectionery, but also chocolates and sweets with European influences, something that was highly appreciated by Madrid's high society at the time. The confectionery was an important social meeting point in Madrid. During the second half of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, it was frequented by intellectuals, politicians and people from high society who went there not only to enjoy its sweets, but also to participate in gatherings and conversations in an elegant atmosphere. Gustavo Adolfo Bécquer, who attended this café until the end of his life, used to sit at one of the tables next to the doors of the confectionery. The legacy of the Confitería Suiza lasted for decades, and although the original establishment closed its doors in the mid-20th century, it left an indelible mark on Madrid's confectionery tradition.