‘The art of the table’

Stories, anecdotes and curiosities to learn/understand/deepen the evolution of the table, cooking and protocol. From the origin of the first cutlery to Hemingway's favorite cocktails.

A BLOG BY

Our way of working always begins with the study of history. We delve into the past to learn from ancient customs and reinterpret them to fit contemporary lifestyles. Elegance and comfort characterize our way of understanding the art of the table.

Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving

Origin and tradition of the celebration

Thanksgiving is one of the most important celebrations of the year in the United States. A special day when family and friends gather around the table to celebrate gratitude.The origin of Thanksgiving dates back to 1621, when English settlers and the Wampanoag tribe held a feast as a sign of thanks for the autumn harvest. The first year in the ‘New World’ had been hard, and the Indians had been crucial in helping them learn farming and hunting techniques. The feast lasted three consecutive days and was held in Plymouth (now Massachusetts).From then on, thanksgiving feasts were celebrated in different communities over the years. In the 19th century, during the Civil War, Republican President Abraham Lincoln decided to declare Thanksgiving Day a bank holiday in 1863, celebrated thereafter on the last Thursday of November. In 1939, as the last Thursday of the month was the 30th, President Franklin D. Roosevelt wanted to move Thanksgiving to the second-to-last Thursday in November in order to add an extra week of Christmas shopping and give the economy a boost. This caused an uproar and citizens protested, calling it ‘Franksgiving’. However, this change was only in effect for two years until 1941, when Congress approved the return of the holiday to the fourth Thursday in November.The traditional Thanksgiving meal is turkey with mashed potatoes and cranberry sauce. Although it has not been proven with certainty that turkey was eaten at the 1621 feast, it is said to have been chosen because of its larger size compared to chickens, ducks and geese, ideal for serving at a large meal. We share the beauty of the moments around the table, the way of turning every meal into a special moment, the love in the small details.

El kipferl austríaco, Maria Antonieta y el croissant francés

The Austrian kipferl, Marie Antoinette and the French croissant

Some legends about its origin

It is said that the Austrian kipferl could be the grandfather of the croissant because of its similar crescent shape. A debate supported by different stories and legends that, believe it or not, add a curious and lively touch to the history of these pastries. The supposed origin of the Austrian kipferl dates back to the 17th century. The story goes that the Ottoman Empire, with the intention of invading Vienna, began to dig a passageway that would allow them to enter the city under the city walls. They dug at night while the Viennese slept, unaware that the bakers, who worked at night, heard the noises. They alerted the authorities, preventing the invasion, and to celebrate they created the kipferl, a bread whose crescent moon shape mimics the crescent moon of the enemy’s Ottoman flag. The world-famous French croissant is thought to be inspired by the Austrian kipferl that Marie Antoinette, Austrian archduchess and queen consort of Louis XVI, had brought to France for breakfast in the 18th century. A century later, the Austrian entrepreneur August Zang opened Boulangerie Viennoise in Paris. He soon made kipferl and pain viennois famous among the gentry. Zang actually modified the original recipe by making a much flakier dough, thus initiating the first version of today’s French croissant. We share a curiosity for the past, customs and traditions. The way to delve into history and discover the origins of things. We don’t know whether or not this is the true origin of the croissant, but it would be a very nice story if it were.

Las primeras cuberterías de acero inoxidable

The first stainless steel cutlery

A material that is just over 100 years old

The origin of the first stainless steel cutlery dates back to the beginning of the 20th century. Before their invention, tableware was usually made of metals such as silver, iron or ordinary steel, which were prone to corrosion and required special care to avoid stains and rust.It was in 1913 that the British metallurgist Harry Brearley came up with an alloy of chromium and carbon steel that did not tarnish or rust and remained the same. A century earlier, experiments had already been carried out with different alloys, with the aim of achieving a rust-resistant material.The first brand to market stainless steel cutlery was Firth-Vickers, a British company based in Sheffield, England. In fact, Brearley worked in one of the company's subsidiaries. Following his discovery, Firth-Vickers was a pioneer in recognising the potential of stainless steel for the production of cookware and cutlery, due to its corrosion resistance and low maintenance. They began to develop and market cutlery made from this material in the 1910s and 1920s. Sheffield continued to establish itself as a centre for the production of stainless steel cutlery, exporting pieces all over the world and laying the foundations for its widespread use in everyday life. Stainless steel revolutionised the cookware and cutlery industry, offering durability, easy cleaning and a shiny finish. The first cutlery made from this material appeared soon after, quickly gaining popularity due to its hygienic properties and low maintenance. Until the beginning of the 20th century, all metal cutlery rusted. It was a very heavy task for the people who had to keep them clean and shiny, to the point of warning them at the time of their hiring, even stating ‘doing no cutlery’ on their letter of introduction. Although stainless steel became the preferred choice for everyday use due to its durability, low maintenance and affordable price, silver cutlery and other silver-plated alloys remained symbols of luxury, sophistication and tradition.Silver cutlery, whether solid silver or silver plated metal, is associated with formal events, celebrations and special occasions. Their distinctive lustre, weight and elegant aesthetics have maintained their popularity in high-end settings, such as luxury hotels, top restaurants and in family collections that are passed down from generation to generation.Several brands have continued to be benchmarks in the production and marketing of silver cutlery, standing out for their quality, history and prestige. Today, in Europe, the French goldsmith Christofle, founded in 1830, whose silver and silver-plated cutlery is still a symbol of sophistication on tables all over the world; and Puiforcat, founded in 1820 by Emile Puiforcat, a house that is synonymous with elegance and excellence in goldsmithing.

El bollo Suizo

The ‘bollo Suizo’

A lifelong sweet from Madrid

The ‘bollo Suizo’ is a classic pastry from Madrid that dates back to the 19th century. Despite its name, it is not of Swiss origin, but is a Spanish creation, specifically from Madrid.It owes its name to the Confitería Suiza, a very popular establishment in the Spanish capital at the time. Opened in 1845, this confectionery was located at number 6 Puerta del Sol and became famous for the production of this pastry. Over time, the Suizo became one of the most popular products in Madrid's pastry shops, becoming part of the traditional breakfast or afternoon snack of many families. Behind the Confitería Suiza was a family of Swiss origin, the Fundérichs, who decided to settle in Madrid and open their own confectionery business. The surname Fundérich has remained associated with the prestige of the establishment, which not only offered confectionery, but also chocolates and sweets with European influences, something that was highly appreciated by Madrid's high society at the time. The confectionery was an important social meeting point in Madrid. During the second half of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, it was frequented by intellectuals, politicians and people from high society who went there not only to enjoy its sweets, but also to participate in gatherings and conversations in an elegant atmosphere. Gustavo Adolfo Bécquer, who attended this café until the end of his life, used to sit at one of the tables next to the doors of the confectionery. The legacy of the Confitería Suiza lasted for decades, and although the original establishment closed its doors in the mid-20th century, it left an indelible mark on Madrid's confectionery tradition. 

La copa de champagne Pompadour

The Pompadour champagne glass

A TOAST REMINISCENT OF THE PAST

The Pompadour champagne glass has an origin full of mythology and elegance. According to popular legend, its low, round shape was moulded from the bust of Madame de Pompadour, mistress of King Louis XV of France, in the 18th century. Although this story is more myth than reality, it helps to perpetuate the seductive and sophisticated image that has always accompanied this glass. Madame de Pompadour was known for her love for champagne, and her association with this bubbly drink helped to cement the relationship between the aristocracy and champagne.The true story behind the creation of the Pompadour glass is less romantic but still interesting. This glass was originally designed to serve champagne at the French court during the 17th century, long before modern winemaking techniques made champagne bubbles as we know them today popular. At that time, champagne was a quiet drink, without effervescence, and the wide, shallow shape of the glass allowed the aromas of the drink to be better appreciated.Throughout the 19th century, as the production of champagne with bubbles was perfected, the Pompadour glass became a symbol of elegance and luxury, present at European high society parties and celebrations. However, the large surface area of the glass was not ideal for preserving the bubbles, which eventually led to the creation of the flute glass, which helps to maintain the effervescence for longer. Even so, the Pompadour retained its place in champagne history, associated with style and refinement.Today, the Pompadour glass remains a champagne drinking choice for those seeking to recall the elegance of the past. Its classic aesthetic evokes images of Belle Époque parties, gilded Hollywood and elegant celebrations over the years. While not the most practical glass for today's champagne, it remains a timeless symbol of luxury and style.

Historia de la porcelana

The history of porcelain

From Chinese dynasties to European courts

Porcelain is a ceramic material that originated in China during the Tang dynasty (618-907 AD), and reached its peak of perfection during the Song dynasty (960-1279 AD). Its discovery was due to the mixture of kaolin, a type of white clay, and feldspar, which when fired at high temperatures produced a hard, translucent material of great beauty. It was highly valued not only in China, but became a symbol of luxury and power in other civilisations, such as Europe.The impact of porcelain on various cultures was remarkable. In Asia, Chinese porcelain was exported along the Silk Road and was highly prized in places such as Persia and the Ottoman Empire. In Europe, porcelain arrived in the 16th century thanks to Portuguese traders and soon became a status symbol. Porcelain in EuropeAt the French court in the 18th century, King Louis XIV collected porcelain pieces, and the famous Sèvres porcelain factory was founded under his patronage. Another renowned European porcelain is Limoges, which to this day is synonymous with high quality porcelain. Such was the fascination with this material that in 1709, in Germany, the alchemist Johann Friedrich Böttger discovered the method of making European porcelain in Meissen. Porcelain from Sèvres, Limoges and Meissen not only defined the taste of the royal courts, but also helped to position Europe as a global competitor in porcelain manufacture. The "white gold"Because of its high commercial value, porcelain in China came to be known as "white gold". In Europe, Chinese porcelain was so highly prized that some pieces cost more than gold itself. In Japan, Arita porcelain was particularly famous, and was of great importance in the tea ceremony, where handcrafted pieces with a delicate balance between form and function were valued.Porcelain has influenced not only culture and commerce, but also art and technology. The process of making porcelain was a milestone in the development of ceramic science, and its properties - strength, lightness, beauty - are still admired today. Moreover, the exchange of porcelain between continents not only contributed to trade, but also fostered dialogue between civilisations, making it a cultural object with a global impact. We share the value and authenticity of unique pieces, the importance and care of craftsmanship. Tradition, quality and elegance in the art of setting the table.

Los primeros linos de la mesa: cómo los detalles cambiaron la forma de comer

The first linens on the table: how details changed the way we eat

Origin and evolution of the tablecloth and the napkin

White linen has become an indispensable material in both our projects and the decoration of our tables. We favour white due to its ability to adapt to any setting, its brightness, and the sense of purity it conveys. It acts as an elegant canvas that highlights the beauty of every element placed upon it, enhancing both the crockery and the accessories. From Tablecloth to Napkin The first tablecloths date back to Roman times and, interestingly, were also made of white linen. Back then, diners would sit aligned, sharing the tablecloth to clean their hands and mouths, which could be considered a precursor to the modern napkin.  «The Last Supper» by Dietric Bouts, 1464-1468. Part of a triptych in Saint Peter's Church.   The napkin has evolved and taken on various forms and functions over time, linked to culture, etiquette, and innovation in different civilisations. There are stories and legends attributing its creation to various historical figures, leading to an interesting debate about its true origin.   It is said that during the Middle Ages, in taverns, it was common to hang a cloth on the walls for customers to clean their hands while eating. However, it was after the French Revolution that Duke Jaques de Serviliet, upon opening his restaurant, introduced an innovation in table setting: each diner received their cutlery wrapped in a cloth, which not only protected the utensils but also served to wipe their hands during the meal. This marked a significant change in etiquette and the way formal dining spaces were organised.   Another theory regarding the origin of the napkin is linked to the Renaissance genius Leonardo da Vinci. During his time as master of ceremonies and banquet organiser at the court of Ludovico Sforza, it is said that guests had rabbits tied to their chairs, which they used to clean their greasy fingers. Da Vinci, seeking a more elegant solution, proposed that each guest receive a personal cloth to clean their hands and knives. He wrote, "I have devised that each diner should have their own cloth, which, once soiled, can be folded to avoid dirtying the table and maintain the decorum of the dinner." However, his contemporaries did not appreciate the brilliance of this idea at the time, and its use did not become popular until much later.   Portrait of Leonardo da Vinci.     The Napkin: Etiquette and Refinement  A lesser-known curiosity is that during the Renaissance, napkins embroidered with family emblems or the initials of the host became a symbol of prestige among European nobility. Wealthy families competed to showcase the most elaborate and decorative napkins at banquets, not just as a practical item but also as a way to demonstrate power and wealth. This added detail to the refinement of tables helped consolidate the use of the napkin in formal settings.  Moreover, during the reign of Louis XIV of France in the 17th century, the monarch imposed strict rules of etiquette at the court of Versailles, one of which was the proper use of the napkin. At royal banquets, each guest was expected to place a large linen napkin on their lap during the meal. This protocol contributed to the dissemination of the napkin as an integral part of table service, establishing it as a symbol of refinement and elegance.   «Les buveurs de vin», Jacques Autreau, 1730.     We share the care of the table and the importance of details. Every small effort, from the tablecloth to the napkin, enhances not only the aesthetics but also the experience surrounding the meal, creating more meaningful and enjoyable moments for all present.

El arte de servir la mesa

The art of serving the table

The French, English, Russian and American service.

During the reign of Isabella the Catholic, men and women began to share the same table to eat. From this moment on, a great interest in etiquette and protocol was born, and "good manners" became very important.   It was Catherine de Medici in 16th century France who introduced the use of "cutlery" at the table, referring to the set of knife, fork and spoon. Until then, only the use of the knife was common.In 1642, his son Henry III drew up the first set of rules to be followed at table, such as the use of different types of plates and cutlery.   From then on, the art of setting the table evolved over the years, and different ways of serving the table emerged in different parts of the world.Today, four types of table service can be distinguished: French, English, Russian and American. French table service during an episode of the British series Downton Abbey     FRENCH-STYLE SERVICEAt the end of the 18th century, during the French Revolution, the nobility's cooks had to give up their jobs and decided to open their own restaurants, serving the table in a more sophisticated and elegant way, with a more personalised service. This is how French table service was born and, over the years, it became an emblem of French gastronomy.The process:The waiter stands to the left of the diner, presents the serving platter and cutlery, and the diner serves himself on his plate.The first to be served are the guests, starting with the women and ending with the hosts, who face each other in the centre of the table. This service is slower because the diners are part of the process. French table service during an episode of the British series Downton Abbey Arrangement of the tableTwo plates are placed: a plain plate as a base and a salad plate on top of it.The cutlery is arranged from the outside in, in the order of the meal, four centimetres apart, the forks to the left of the plate and the knives to the right of it. On the left side, first the fish fork and then the meat fork, and on the right side, following the same order, the soup spoon, fish knife and meat knife are placed. The dessert cutlery, fork and spoon, are placed on top of the plates, the fork with the tines facing to the right and the spoon facing the opposite side. The forks are placed with the tines facing downwards, the spoons with the tines facing upwards and the knives with the blades facing the plate.The napkin is placed to the left of the last fork. The bread plate is placed in front of the forks, with a butter knife on it. The glasses are placed in the order of the meal, from left to right, the water glass, the red wine glass, the white wine glass, and the champagne glass.           ENGLISH SERVICE English-style service emerged in the 15th century during the reign of Henry VII of England. The tables of the English nobility used to be very crowded, with up to nine glasses and a large number of dishes, cutlery, shovels and tongs. This new service freed up space on the table, as it was the servant who presented and served the dishes. Process The waiter stands to the left of the diner, holds the platter in his left hand and uses his right hand to serve. He does this with a spoon and fork, a shovel or tongs and serves the same amount to all the guests. The main course is served in the centre of the plate, the garnish is served on the sides and the sauces are placed to the left or behind the main course. The waiter removes the plates from the right side.The first to be served are the hosts or the guest of honour, placed at the head of the table. The waiter then serves to the left in a clockwise direction.   Trainee waiters during a class at the London Waiters' School in 1934 Table arrangementA flat plate is placed as a base and an appetizer plate is placed on top.As for the cutlery, it is placed from the outside to the inside, in the order of the meal. Three different types of cutlery are used, all four centimetres apart. For the starter course, spoon, fork and table knife; for the main course, fork and meat or fish knife; and for dessert, fork and dessert spoon. Forks are placed with the point upwards, spoons with the concave side downwards and knives with the blade facing the plate.The napkin is placed to the left of the last fork. The bread plate is placed in front of the forks, with a butter knife on it.The glasses are arranged diagonally. The glass of water is placed above the knife and slightly away from the guest, and the glass of red wine on the spoon, slightly closer to the guest than the glass of water. The white wine glass is placed to the right and a little lower than the red wine glass.         RUSSIAN-STYLE SERVICEThere are different versions of the origin of the Russian service.Some say that it was during the reign of Louis XIV, when he had a servant called Gueridon, who, because of his short stature, would hold the tray standing until he had finished serving the cakes.Other theories tell that at the beginning of the 19th century, Prince Alexander Kurakin ordered the dishes to be prepared in front of the table where he ate. Nowadays, the side table where the cook carves, cuts, slices, chops, dices, cuts up or flambées the food and finishes cooking the dishes so that they can be served freshly cooked is known as a gueridon. The gueridon is placed on one side of the table and does not move during preparation.ProcessAfter the dish has been prepared, the cook serves each dish one by one in the gueridon and the waiter takes it to each diner, starting with the most important guest and then in sequential order, with the host being the last to be served.At tables with a large number of diners, the cook serves the base dish in the gueridon and the accompaniments or salads are presented by the waiter and served by the diner himself. Russian table service (Gueridon) during the preparation of "canard au sang" at the restaurant La Tour D'Argent in Paris Table layoutA serving plate is placed on the table.The cutlery is arranged from the outside to the inside, in the order of the meal, forks to the left of the plate and knives to the right of the plate. First the appetizer fork, then the fish fork, then the meat fork; and on the right side soup spoon, fish knife and meat knife. The forks are placed with the tip facing downwards, the spoons with the concave side facing upwards and the knives with the blade facing the plate. Dessert cutlery is not placed on the table.The napkin is placed on top of the serving plate. The bread plate is placed in front of the forks, with a butter knife to the right of it.The glasses are arranged diagonally, as in the English style. The water glass is placed above the knife and slightly away from the guest, and the red wine glass is placed on the spoon, slightly closer to the guest than the water glass. The white wine glass is to the right and a little lower than the red wine glass. AMERICAN TABLE STYLE It is inspired by French table service, with a number of modifications introduced by the French chef Auguste Escoffier. Escoffier was a pioneer in incorporating the à la carte menu, which allowed dishes to be prepared quickly, while maintaining an equally elegant service, although faster and more practical. ProcessThis style combines different characteristics of the previous ones.The dishes are prepared and plated in the kitchen, and the waiter serves them directly to each diner from the right-hand side. English service is used for serving soup or cream dishes, whereby the waiter holds the dish with his left hand and serves the diners with his right hand. For salads or starters, French service is used, so that the waiter presents them and each diner serves himself.     Arrangement of the tableA flat plate is placed as a base and an appetizer plate is placed on top of it.As for the cutlery, only a fork, a knife and a spoon are initially placed for the starters. The cutlery required for the various subsequent courses is placed by the waiter before being brought to the table. The forks are placed with the fork tip facing upwards, the spoons with the fork tip facing downwards and the knives with the knife edge facing the plate.The napkin is placed on top of the appetizer plate. The bread plate is placed in front of the forks, with a butter knife to the right of it.The glasses are arranged diagonally, as in the English and Russian style. The water glass is placed above the knife and slightly away from the guest, and the red wine glass is placed on the spoon, slightly closer to the guest than the water glass. The white wine glass is placed to the right and a little lower than the red wine glass. We share the desire to discover the origin of our traditions.Elegance and quality in the art of setting the table.

Vajilla Rosario

Rosario Tableware

AN ARTISAN PROCESS OF 19 DAYS AND 10 STEPS

A collection inspired by our mother, named in her honour. Our Rosario tableware collection, made for Villa Las Perelli, is produced in small quantities in Spain through a traditional and artisanal process that combines the use of the hydraulic press with the manual work of the craftsman. It is composed of different pieces that share a design inspired by the past.The pieces of the Rosario dinnerware are made for Villa Las Perelli in a family workshop in Spain using white earthenware produced in Manises (Valencia) and formulated in England. White earthenware pieces and the Villa Las Perelli hallmark that the artisan puts on each piece one by one   PREPARATION OF THE EARTHENWARETo prepare the earthenware, the air is extracted from the earthenware cakes by introducing them into a kneading machine, thus obtaining blocks of earthenware of different sizes that will be used according to the size of the piece that we want to produce. FIRST MOULDINGThe next step is the moulding of the piece with the hydraulic press. The craftsman uses the same hydraulic press to make the different pieces, changing the mould for each one. The mould is made up of two parts: the female part is placed at the bottom and the male part at the top. The process of changing the moulds in the press can take up to a day between replacement and cleaning. The artisan carries out this process every time he changes the piece or the type of earthenware.To obtain the first moulding of the piece, he inserts the piece of earthenware into the female part of the mould. This rises upwards, flattening the piece against the upper part, generating a surplus of earthenware that comes out of the sides (burr) and is removed when the lower piece is lowered. The burr accumulates in a container to be reused (it will be reintroduced in the process described in the first step). The piece of earthenware sticks to the top of the press. At this point, the artisan puts our stamp on the bottom of the piece by hand. He removes it by pressing the pedal that activates the air passage of the compressor, which removes it and lets it fall onto a wooden board that he holds in his hand. This process is repeated numerous times as many times as pieces are produced in the run. Craftsman removing the excess of the pressed piece (burr) and putting the stamp on it before removing it from the press DRYINGOnce the pieces have been moulded, they are left to dry so that they become more rigid and can be worked with. They are left for two days in a damp drying room. It is important that the pieces do not dry outside the drying room and that they are not near the heat to prevent the piece from cracking.    First shape of the Rosario trays size L, ready to be taken to the drying room Artisan introducing the trays into the wet dryer for the first drying process     FINISHING AND SMOOTHINGOnce the pieces have hardened, the potter smoothes them one by one by hand. He places the piece on a turning wheel that rotates on itself and with a blade he removes the excess earthenware from the edge of the piece. He then smoothes the piece with a damp sponge to make it smooth and finished. Refinishing area where the potter touches up each piece one by one with a knife, sandpaper and sponge SECOND DRYINGOnce the pieces have been retouched, they are left to dry again, this time in a less humid drying area. The piece remains there for about a week until it is completely dry. This time varies according to the season of the year, taking longer in winter and less in summer.FIRST BAKINGOnce dry, the pieces are placed in the kiln cars. The gas oven is approximately 2 cubic metres in size and reaches a temperature of 1040 degrees. The pieces are baked for 14 hours and then cool for two and a half days. This is how we obtain the baked earthenware pieces ready for glazing. Pieces after the first baking from tray size L of our Rosario collection. GLAZINGBefore glazing, the pieces are checked one by one for any imperfections. If any piece needs to be touched up, the potter sands the area very smoothly with fine sandpaper and a well-drained sponge.Once ready to glaze, the potter prepares the glaze mixture with water by stirring with a paddle or whisk to make it liquid. He immerses the piece in glaze holding it with a pair of glazing tongs and holds it for a second or several seconds, depending on the piece. He takes it out and lets it drain a little, and places it on a shelf to let it dry.The piece takes a few hours to dry. Once dry, the excess glaze is removed from the bottom. This phase is very important because if the part of the piece that is going to rest in the kiln has some glaze on it, the piece will stick to the kiln plate.   SECOND BAKINGOnce the glaze has been removed from the bottom, the pieces are put back into the oven, taking great care to ensure that the pieces do not touch each other, otherwise they will stick together. The pieces are fired at 950 degrees for 7 hours. The cooling time is approximately 12 hours. Each piece of our Rosario dinnerware takes a minimum of 19 days to make and goes through 10 different steps: preparation of the earthenware, placing the moulds in the press, making the pieces in the press, first drying, retouching and smoothing, second drying, first kiln, retouching and glazing, second kiln and last drying.